Wednesday, November 16, 2022

This is not an unsafe site!

 Today when I logged in to look at my blog, Chrome had it flagged as a deceptive site.  It is not a deceptive site, I have had this blog for over a decade.  I'll have to look into it to see what the issue is.

Tuesday, March 2, 2021

Soap!

Normally we tend to prefer making large, rustic bars of soap, with less concern for the appearance of the soap, and more attention to ingredients and lather.  Usually, the soap is poured into five-pound loaf molds and cut into generous slices which can be cut down into smaller sizes.  Sometimes, we make smaller bars or use molds in different shapes.

What we've been up to lately: 


Hot Cocoa Salt

Salt bars are soaps that contain a high percentage of salt, often as high as 50%.  It's sort of like a salt scrub in bar form.  They are nice at the kitchen or mudroom sink and great for use after gardening.  Salt bars should not be used to wash cut or broken skin, because the salt can cause stinging.

The Hot Cocoa Salt bars have a mild scent reminiscent of hot chocolate and are topped with espresso powder and coarse sea salt.  Some are decorated with a single coffee bean.  The ingredients are Babassu Oil, Coconut oil, Castor Oil, Cocoa Butter, Pomace Olive Oil, Sodium Hydroxide, (processed into soap),  Himalayan Salt, Coffee Grounds, Cocoa Powder, Fragrance.  Decorated with Sea Salt, Himalayan Salt, Espresso Powder, and Coffee Beans.


All Spruced Up

This soap was made using the hot process method.  In the hot process method, the soap solution is heated to accelerate saponification.  After saponification but while the solution is still fluid, fragrance ingredients are added.  We do it this way because prior to saponification, the solution is at a very high ph, which may alter the quality of some of the ingredients.  After saponification, the ph is a bit lower.  The hot process method tends to create a more rustic appearance to the soap, but we prefer it because we think it generally yields a better quality scent.

The soap has an invigorating spruce scent.  We added different plant materials in layers to create various shades of green and topped it with a layer tinted with green oxide.  The different layers are reminiscent of the sensation of walking through a forest, with different layers of vegetation underfoot.  The ingredients are Coconut Oil, Sustainable Palm Oil, Castor Oil, Cocoa Butter, Refined Rice Bran Oil, Pomace Olive Oil, Shea Butter, Sodium Hydroxide, (processed into soap) Yogurt, French green clay, essential oils of Spruce, Cedar, Amyris, and Pine, also contains Spirulina, Chlorella, Alfalfa Leaf,  Mica, Fragrance, Sea Salt, Sugar, Tussah Silk, Sodium Lactate, and Vitamin E T50.


Golden Mimosa

Golden Mimosa was created for a pampered bathtime experience.  It contains mimosa floral wax and mango seed butter and is scented with notes of mimosa, sandalwood, and ambergris.  When you look at the soap, you may see a white film in places.  This film is called soda ash and sometimes occurs naturally while handcrafted soap is curing.  Many soapmakers go to great lengths to formulate their soap to avoid soda ash, or they may rinse it off after the soap is cured.  Our practice at this time is to leave it on - it doesn't harm anything, and it rinses off easily during the first use, and it demonstrates that this is truly a handcrafted soap.

Ingredients: Oils of Olive, Coconut,  Sustainable Organic Palm, Castor; Mango Seed Butter, Sodium Hydroxide, (processed into soap,) Mimosa Wax, Sandalwood Essential oil, Vitamin E T-50, Fragrance 

Eventide


Scented with Jasmine Sambac Wax, Jasmine Grandiflorum Wax,  Ylang Ylang Essential Oil, Frankincense Essential Oil, Pink Grapefruit Essential Oil, Petitgrain Essential Oil, Patchouli Essential Oil, Mandarin Essential Oil, and Jasmine Essential Oil, this soap is superfatted with luxurious Mowrah Butter.  It's perfect for a special night, or just for special pampering.

Ingredients:   Olive Oil, Coconut Oil, Mowrah Butter, Sunflower Oil, Castor Oil, Sodium Hydroxide, Sweet Woodruff, (processed into soap) Jasmine Sambac Wax, Jasmine Grandiflorum Wax, Essential Oils of Ylang Ylang, Frankincense, Pink Grapefruit, Petitgrain, Patchouli, Mandarin, Jasmine Also contains Fragrance, Sea Salt, and Vitamin E T50

Unconquered Sun

Unconquered Sun has a mild evergreen scent with a hint of clove and citrus.  Ingredients: Oils of  Coconut,  Olive, Castor,  Palm, Shea butter, Sodium Hydroxide, (processed into soap,) Glycerin, Essential Oils of Orange, Frankincense, Bay Laurel, Myrrh, Vanilla, Juniper Berry, Fir Needle, Pine Needle, Nutmeg, Clove, Vitamin E T-50, Salt


Pumpkin Swirl

This soap was made with pumpkin puree and was poured into a mold with a Celtic knot design.  It smells like pumpkin spice.  Ingredients: Oils of  Coconut,  Olive, Sunflower, Castor,  RedPalm, Shea butter, Sodium Hydroxide, (processed into soap,) Pumpkin Puree, Pumpkin Pie Spices, Essential Oils of Orange, Clove Bud, Frankincense and Vanilla, Vitamin E T-50, Fragrance Oils, Salt



HHGB

This soap has a woodsy, earthy, almost smoky scent.  Similar to King of the May, but much earthier and more primal.  Ingredients: Olive Oil, Coconut Oil, Shea Butter, Sunflower Oil, Castor Oil, Sodium Hydroxide, Sweet Woodruff, (processed into soap) Essential oils of Fir, Rosewood, Pine, Sage, Coriander, Katrafay, Rosemary, White Thyme, Cajeput, Cedarwood, Birch Tar, Benzoin, Copaiba Balsam, Vetiver, Patchouli, Myrrh, Vanilla, Frankincense, also contains Fragrance, Sea Salt, and Vitamin E T50

Honor Bars

This soap has a fruity, citrusy scent.  Ingredients: Pomace Olive Oil, Sustainable Palm Oil, Coconut Oil, Castor Oil, Shea Butter, Sodium Hydroxide, (processed into soap), French Red Clay, essential oils of Orange, Lemongrass, Coriander, Frankincense, Myrrh, Sea Salt, Vitamin E T50, Also contains LabColors Orange for soap (Red 40 & Yellow 5) and Gold Mica, (Mica, Iron Oxide)


Queen of the May

Perfumed with Rose and Benzoin, this luxurious soap gets its dark color from the Bulgarian Rose Wax and Vanilla Essential Oil.  Ingredients: Olive Oil, Coconut Oil, Mowrah Butter, Sunflower Oil, Castor Oil, Sodium Hydroxide, Sweet Woodruff, (processed into soap) Bulgarian Rose Wax, Essential Oils of Geranium, Ylang Ylang, Vanilla, Frankincense, Benzoin, Rosewood, Palmarosa, Jamarosa  Also contains Fragrance, Sea Salt, and Vitamin E T50


Mayflower


Light floral fragrance.  Ingredients: Oils of Coconut, Olive, Shea Butter, Castor, Sodium Hydroxide, (processed into soap,) Fragrance Oils, Vitamin E T-50

King of the May

King of the May has a woodsy, earthy scent.  Ingredients: Oils of Olive, Coconut, Sunflower, Castor, Shea Butter, Sodium Hydroxide, (processed into soap) Crushed Dried Sweet Woodruff Herb, Essential Oils of Frankincense, Sandalwood, Cedar Wood, Benzoin, Vetiver, Pine, Sage, Vanilla, Geranium, Ylang-Ylang Vitamin E T-50, Fragrance oils of Oakmoss and Sandalwood 


Desert Seeker:  Goat's Milk Bar and Shave Bar

Desert Seeker is a masculine scent, with notes of musk and desert creosote.  It's available in a goat's milk hand and body bar, and in a shave soap, and is available as a set or individually.  You may notice the soda ash on one end of the goat's milk bar.  This occurs naturally during the curing process and will rinse off right away the first time the soap is used.

Desert Seeker Goat's Milk ingredients:  Ingredients: Oils of Olive, Coconut,  Sustainable Organic Palm, Castor; Goat’s Milk, Sodium Hydroxide, (processed into soap,) Fragrant Oil

Desert Seeker Shave Ingredients: Ingredients: Sustainable Organic Palm Oils, Castor Oil, Coconut Oil, Pomace Oil Oil, Shea Butter, Sunflower Oil, Jojoba Oil, Sodium Hydroxide, (processed into soap,) Sodium Lactate, Sugar, Vitamin E T -50, Fragrant Oil 

Mighty Lugh: Full Sized Bath, Half Sized Bath, Salt Bar, and Shave Bar

Mighty Lugh was intended as a masculine scent, but some describe it as unisex.  It has notes of green apple, apple blossom, lavender, and oak.  It's available in a set or individually.  You may notice that the salt bar looks uneven and rustic.  This is because salt bars harden very quickly after they are poured and can be a challenge to cut evenly.  The round shave bar is a slightly different color than the rest, due to the addition of  Bentonite Clay.

Mightly Lugh Ingredients: Pomace Olive Oil, Organic Sustainable Palm Oil, Coconut Oil, Sunflower Oil, Castor Oil, Shea Butter Jojoba Oil, (Processed into soap with Sodium Hydroxide), Essential oils of Frankincense and Lavender, Vitamin E T-50, Fragrance

Mighty Lugh Salt:  Ingredients: Organic  Coconut Oil, Castor Oil, Organic Sunflower Oil (Processed into soap with Sodium Hydroxide), Sea Salt, Vegetable Glycerin, Essential oils of Frankincense and Lavender, Vitamin E T-50, Fragrance

Mighty Lugh Shave: Ingredients: Coconut Oil, Pomace Olive Oil, Castor Oil, Sustainable Organic Palm Oil, Shea Butter, Sunflower Oil, Jojoba Oil, Sodium Hydroxide, (processed into soap,) Bentonite Clay, Glycerin,  Lavender Essential Oil, Frankincense Essential Oil, Fragrant Oil, Sugar, Sodium Lactate, Vitamin E T -50

Random, Ugly and Naked, aka Runner Bars

When you love to make soap as much as we do, you are bound to have a lot of leftovers.  Some pieces are more misshapen than our usual rustic bars or have larger air bubbles.  They may be the last lonely piece left out of a batch or the scent may have faded.  Sometimes when we are developing new formulas, we will create test batches, trying several ingredients from different sources until we find the perfect one.  They wind up in a bin without labels.  The soap is still wonderful and mild, it's just... random, ugly, and naked.

Saturday, June 1, 2019

Ingredients matter: Controversial Ingredients in Bath and Body Products

One of the reasons that people buy handcrafted bath and body products is to avoid synthetic chemicals.  I've been quite through a few phases during my soap-making journey, and one phase was "crunchy granola earth mama." I was convinced that only "all-natural" is the way to go and that anything with chemicals was inferior at best and dangerous at worst.  While I still love mother nature and appreciate the natural aesthetic, I do feel that man-made and lab-created ingredients have their place.  That doesn't mean that ingredients don't matter.  But there is more to it than natural vs. synthetic.  One might also consider whether the ingredient is healthy, ecologically friendly, or wildlife friendly.

Essential oils and other Plant Materials: 

Essential oils are natural oils that are made by distilling plant material, which involves heat.  It takes a large amount of plant material to make a small quantity of essential oils.  The oil generally will smell like the plant material, for example, orange essential oils smell like oranges.  Not all plant material can be used to create an essential oil that smells like the plant.  For example, material from the strawberry plant will not make an essential oil that smells like strawberries.  Not all plant materials will retain their fragrance in the distillation process, because the heat changes the chemical structure of the plant material.

People assume that because essential oils are natural, they are always safe and healthy for everyone, but that is not the case.  Certain essential oils are contraindicated for people with certain health conditions or can be harmful to pregnant women or young children.  Some people are allergic to essential oils. Some essential oils can cause irritation, particularly if they are not properly diluted.  In the case of cancer patients, some essential oils need to be avoided during a period of time leading up to and after chemotherapy.  Certain essential oils cause something called phototoxicity, which causes increased sensitivity to sun exposure, causing sunburn and a rash.  Sun exposure should be avoided for several hours after using these oils.  It is true that soap is a wash-off product, so the concern about things like drug interaction and photosensitivity not as high, because most of the essential oils go down the drain with the dirt.  However, it can be difficult to determine how much exposure is "safe." 

Some essential oils are extremely expensive, such as rose, jasmine, and sandalwood, and it might seem a waste to put expensive oils in a soap that will just be lathered up and rinsed down the drain.  Some wild plants are at risk of becoming endangered due to over-harvesting for essential oils.  To me, this means that sometimes we can love nature and love ourselves when we use synthetic materials safely and prudently.  While fragrance oils are not therapeutic, there are advantages to the proper use of fragrance oils.

Here is an excellent comment on essential oils and chemotherapy, by one of the leading essential oil experts:  Frankincense essential oil and cancer: Why EOs and chemotherapy don't always mix

Here's a pretty comprehensive article on essentials oils for cancer patients:

Aromatherapy With Essential OIls

Here is a pretty good description of some reasons to use fragrance oils:


and another:

A Complete Guide To Natural, Organic & Synthetic Fragrances

Chanel is famous for growing their own flower fields to make their perfume.  Take a look at how much Chanel sells a bar of soap for - $26.00!

Chanel N5

Distillation is only one form of fragrance extraction from plants.  Others are solvent extraction, expression, sieving, or enfleurage. 

Solvent extraction is often used when a plant material cannot withstand distillation.  The fragrance is extracted using a solvent such as hexane, ethanol, or carbon dioxide.  After the fragrance is extracted from the plant material, the solvent is removed from the material, leaving behind an ingredient called concretes, absolutes, or tinctures.  People have told me that they avoid concretes because they are made using hexane, which is toxic and carcinogenic.  This is true.  Hexane is toxic and carcinogenic - it's very harmful to inhale pure hexane.  However, in the concrete material, the amount of hexane left behind is minute - in parts per million - and the real risk of exposure is to the people who are using the hexane to make concretes.  Would I use a perfume that contains concretes?  Yes, probably, even when avoiding carcinogenic substances, because the amount of hexane left behind is too small to cause concern in day-to-day perfume use.  Would I accept a job working with hexane to make concretes?  Yes, as long as I am confident that the safety equipment that I am using and the procedures I am following are sufficient to protect my health 

"Expression" simply means that the material is squeezed to release the oils.  This is most common with citrus oils.

Enfleurage and maceration involve blending the plant material with fats or grease.  With maceration, the fragrance is extracted from the fat using alcohol. 

Usually, most of these methods are used in perfume blends but can be cost-prohibitive in soap. 

Fragrance Oils

Fragrance oils are materials that contain both synthetics natural compounds.  They are popular in soaps and other bath and body products for several reasons.  One is that fragrance oils can be found in fragrances that cannot be obtained from distillation, expression, or enfleurage, such as strawberry scent, or "ocean breeze."  This creates a wider range of possibilities for fragrance, like having more colors in the crayon box.  Another reason that fragrance oils are popular is that can tend to be far more affordable than essential oils, concretes, plant waxes, and absolutes.  They can be blended with natural compounds, creating endless possibilities.  If a person wishes to avoid an essential oil for health reasons such as chemotherapy, they can enjoy still enjoy scents in their bath and body products.

Phthalates:  

Fragrance oils are also controversial because they may contain phthalates.  Phthalates are a large group of chemicals that are used to soften plastic, (they are even used to soften plastic baby toys,) and are used as solvents.  They are often used to improve fragrance oils.  They are pervasive and found in everything from car upholstery to sneakers.  They have found to be linked to obesity, male infertility, and asthma.  They are regulated to be used within levels that are determined to be safe, but my issue with them is that while they may be in safe levels in each individual product, I don't know the cumulative impact they have when they are in almost everything.  More research is needed to understand the impact of phthalates.  

Several years ago in the online communities, soap makers began to discuss phthalates in the fragrance ingredients they were using to make soap.  As a result of the discussions, the fragrance vendors began to list their phthalate free fragrances on their websites.  Later, some of these companies began offering only phthalate free fragrances.  I only purchase phthalate free fragrance, but if someone wanted me to make them a soap using a fragrance that contains phthalate, I would be comfortable purchasing the fragrance and making soap with it, as long as we have a conversation about it.  On the other hand, if I can make soap without it, why wouldn't I? 

Here's a great article about phthalates:

Phthalates are everywhere, and the health risks are worrying. How bad are they really?

Parabens:

Preservatives are another potentially controversial ingredient.  Preservatives are not used in bar soaps, but they must be added to any personal care product that contains water.  Whenever a bath, skin, or hair product contains any water, there is a danger of toxic bacteria growing in the product, and this can lead to serious health problems.  Unfortunately, the most common preservative, paraben, has been linked to cancer.  Currently, the amount of paraben which is added to products is deemed safe, but the cumulative effect of using products containing paraben is not understood.  It is possible to find paraben-free products that simply contain a different type of preservative, but these may have a shorter shelf life, so after six months to a year, it's best to discard these products.  Parabens are said to increase shelf life for up to two years.  When I make bath and body products that need to contain a preservative, I use paraben-free preservatives.  

Here is my personal view on parabens:  If someone I loved had a history of cancer, I would probably encourage them to avoid parabens as much as possible.  They can't be completely avoided though.  If your family member had a history of skin cancer, and you were stranded in the middle of the desert without sunblock, and the only store that sold sunblock within 100 miles had one brand of sunblock with parabens in it, would you risk another sunburn, or use the sunblock?  I know what I would do.  I think that for me, if there were two otherwise equal products, but one was paraben-free, I would choose the paraben-free product, as long as it wasn't expired.  Otherwise, I would use the product that contains parabens.  As a woman, sometimes I want to wear makeup, and it can be a challenge to find a product that works for me that is also free of parabens.

Detergents and Surfactants:

Many soap makers will tell you that one of the many advantages of homemade soap is that generally, most handcrafted soap makers do not add detergents, surfactants, or foaming and lathering agents to their soap, unlike the commercially manufactured bar and liquid soaps that can be found in most drug stores.  They will say that detergents and surfactants are chemicals that are often made from petroleum and are bad for your skin and for the environment.  I used to be one of those soap makers, but over time my opinions have softened a bit.  Like many other things, the subject isn't so black and white.

While it's true that many detergents and surfactants are made from petroleum, these days there are many gentle, sustainable, and biodegradable alternatives that are made from coconut oil.  They are safe when used correctly.  

I have recently begun making shampoo bars using gentle, biodegradable coconut oil-based detergents. This is after many years of trying unsuccessfully, to formulate a good soap shampoo bar that works well on hair.  It's just not possible to get the ph of soap low enough for it to work well on hair.  Some people consider these surfactants and similar ingredients to be natural because they are made from coconut, while others consider them to be synthetic because they have "chemical-sounding" names and are made in a lab.  After doing my research, I have found that they are superior ingredients for certain applications.   

Note:  Cocomide diethanolamine has been added to the California Proposition 65 list of chemicals known to cause cancer.  I do not use Cocamide DEA.  I use Sodium Cocoyl Isethionate, and Cocamidopropyl Betaine, neither of which causes cancer.

Palm Oil

Palm oil has been a staple product for humans for over 5,000 years.  Palm oil is used in foods and in bath and body ingredients.  It is used to make biofuel.  It's used in packaged snack foods and baked goods, and soap makers use it for making hand-crafted soap.  It’s native to West Africa but is now also grown in Southeast Asia.  About 90% of the world's palm oil is grown in Malaysia, Indonesia, and Thailand, although it is also produced in Africa and in some Latin American countries.  The palm oil controversy stems from deforestation and the destruction of the orangutan habitat.  Orangutans are native to southeast Asia.  The palm oil industry in Indonesia and Malaysia has led to rainforest deforestation and monoculture, which in turn has endangered orangutans and other wildlife.  For this reason, many people are boycotting goods made with palm oil.  

For many years, I stopped using palm oil in my soaps due to the controversy, replacing palm oil with shea butter in all my formulations.  Eventually, I learned about sustainable palm oil, which does not threaten wildlife.   Sustainable palm oil provides a source of income to hardworking palm oil producers who have been working their family plantations for generations without participating in the deforestation in Southeast Asia.  The fact is, it is far more practical to find ways to produce palm oil sustainably and without harming biodiversity or wildlife than it is to stop all global production and use of palm oil  We should be doing all we can to make sure that all of the products that we use are coming from sustainable sources that do not harm the environment or wildlife - not just palm oil.  These days I boycott unsustainable palm oil.  However, I do use sustainable palm oil.     



While I still think of myself as a "crunchy granola earth mama," enjoying the natural aesthetic and making all-natural lye soap that is scented and colored only with herbs, clays, and essential oils, I also like having plenty of options.  These days, as long as I am comfortable with the safety of the ingredients, I like making all the things!  

These are personal choices.  If you have to choose between the hand soap provided in a public restroom and not using soap, what would you choose?  If you had to choose between sunscreen with parabens and phthalates or sunburn, what would you choose?  
  
 

Tuesday, January 22, 2019

I can't believe it's been almost two years since I last posted.  I've been working very hard at things other than soap, and there have been many changes in my life. 

In a couple weeks, I'll be giving a talk about Magickal Scent and Soap. 

Hopefully life will settle down so that I'll be able to make soap - and write about it - a whole lot more.

Sunday, February 26, 2017

Gearing Up For A New Grand Opening


A lot of things have happened in the last two years.  A family member had a medical emergency and needed major surgery.  I went back to work.  In December, when friends asked if we had soaps available for holiday gifts, a lot of people were turned down.

My son has taken quite an interest in soap making, and now that he is sixteen, he is quite strong and a good worker.  I've been teaching him as much as possible, and together we are far more productive than I have ever been.  

By mid-April we will be stocked well enough to reopen the Etsy store with a modest selection.

My little soap hobby might just turn into a modest family business.  One day.  We'll see.

Thursday, July 17, 2014

Teaching Soap Making

My youngest son is about to turn 14, and it's time for him to learn how to make soap.  I've always said that I don't wish to teach soap making classes, but I can monitor my son's progress as a soap maker over time, which alleviates any of the aforementioned concerns. 

Previously I taught him how to make Laundry Sauce out of homemade caustic soap, and how to melt down the trimmings from previous batches of soap and turn it into a new batch.

For those who don't know, here's the Laundry Sauce recipe.  I like this recipe better than others that we've tried.

http://www.budget101.com/myo-household-items/whipped-cream-super-laundry-soap-3993.html

If you don't know how to rebatch your soap trimmings, here's some great info from Miller's Homemade Soap:

http://www.millersoap.com/re.html


Today, I decided to start with information about PH, soap making safety, and an overview of the soap making process using online tutorials and other online resources.

Later, I may add additional links to this post, for future reference.

We started with a basic discussion about pH, and made our own pH chart, plugging in the numbers for things like the pH of hair, skin, lye, soap, and vinegar.

Here's a good article for kids about pH:

http://www.ducksters.com/science/acids_and_bases.php

A pH chart:

http://www.curlynikki.com/2013/09/ph-and-natural-hair-what-you-need-to.html

A basic explanation of what happens when lye is combined with fats:

http://www.grit.com/departments/how-lye-becomes-soap.aspx#axzz37kYr2CKb

Here's an excellent lab worksheet explaining the saponification process:

http://people.cedarville.edu/employee/gollmers/gsci1020/labs/08g1020lab5.pdf

Soap Queen TV has a really good 4-part beginner series.  I like it because they placed a good emphasis on safety.  We absolutely will not be making soap without strictly following all safety precautions.  As he gets older, he may decide to make soap while barefoot and not wearing safety glasses, but when he makes soap with me, we'll err on the side of caution!


Part 1:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=yR6ttCSrLJI    
Part 2:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xP7mvbAdYWc
Part 3:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fHvuWaClMz0
Part 4:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=K3NQMzeDMAU

Next, we watched Jan from SudsNSuch, as she made laundry bars similar to the ones we plan to make tomorrow:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JpTCe5jbclw

And then, because we were curious, we watched her 2- part liquid shampoo video:


Making Liquid Shampoo Base:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kRYvVD-dxRI

Making My Finished Shampoo:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KOilzM05_r4

Next, I'll teach him how I set up the work area and prepare to make soap. 



Tuesday, April 9, 2013

Pettigrain with Fennel Eau De Toilette

Life these days is filled with homeschooling, mom taxi-ing, and a million projecst, so I haven't had the time for soapmaking that I would like.

However, this morning I let my son sleep in because he is fighting off a cold, and during the peace and quiet I made an eau de toilette for myself that turned out completely delicious.

These are the essential oils used:

Mostly:

Fennel
Pettigrain
Pink Grapefruit
Sandalwood
Amyris
Ylang Ylang

Smaller amounts:

Pine
Clove

Clary Sage


Tiny amounts of:
Jasmine (it's in jojoba so I added more but the effect is less.)
Lemon
Lemongrass
Bourbon Geranium
Eucalyptus
Patchouli
Peppermint
Spearmint

It sounds like a huge chaotic mess, but it's not.  It's heavenly.  It's soft.  I can't pick up where the fennel leaves off and the pettigrain begins.  The sandalwood seems to melt into the ylang ylang. 

As I mixed it all up, I felt like a cross between a mad scientist and a spoiled exotic princess.  Few things make me happier than this.